Post by Bow 1 on Mar 22, 2006 15:24:04 GMT -5
Note: This is how I do my arrows, yours may be different, but hopefully it may help someone who has never done it. Its worked for me for a long while, components have changed and the process has only gotten better.
First thing I do when I get my shafts is I install the knock bushing and kocks, then I cut them to the length I need.
I then figure out where the stiffest part of the arrow is for each arrow, then use a permanent marker to mark it at the arrowend and bushing. I then align the little feeler grove on the knock with that mark.
Now I take my tips and shafts as well as vanes and fool around on the scale till I get all of them with in one grain (thats me but I am a little anal when it comes to this) I then glue in the tips. Now for broadheads before I glue in the insert I put them on each insert and then have a predetermined spot to where I want the blade on the broad head to line up (does not matter where just as long as all are the same) then I put the glue on and spin the broad head till I get to that spot (got to be fast and use a BH wrench) . I number them arrow and broadhead, with dots, broadhead gets one dot and arrow gets one dot and so on. again (permanent marker) if you dont you will have a heck of a time getting those back the same (unless you feltch them with the broadhead on, I dont too many kids running around), This is just so I can make sure the broadhead goes back to the original arrow I set it up with. I usually on due six at a time for broadheads.
Next I use the Bohing SSR surface shaft cleaner. It is simple to use and last for dozens of arrows and only cost like 4 dollars a bottle. You simple fill it with water and then shake it, I pour it into like a big gulp glass and then set you arrows in for seven minutes then rinse with hot water, let air dry and your ready to fletch. You can then just pour it back into the bottle and reuse it, it says till it gets really black looking then its time for a new bottle. Here is a link to the stuff
www.bohning.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=125
I have to tell you I have tried many fletchers and by far the best most reliable I have ever used is a Bitzenburg.
Here is the main reasons I prefer a single jig.
For one if you use a mutlifletcher every vane will be put on slightly different, I dont care what you do it will, pull out you micro guages whatever, some may not care but I do. I feel that I am already handicapped by using a bow, I want all the odds in my favor. Now if you use one jig every vane on that arrow and everyone after will be aligned exactly the same.
Even if you use 6 Bitzenburgs they will be different, much closer than using one of the mass producing fletchers, but still not the same.
I suggest taking some (same size as you will be fletching) junk vanes and some old arrows then practice with the different angles and settings on the jig till you find one you like. Be patient, when setting it up. After you get the jig set, I always start with the first vane going inline with the first line I put on there for the spine and the nock feeler. Now before you stick glue on that vane make sure you put a mark on your clamp that shows you where you want each vane end to start. There are marks but when you get going you can forget which one you lined it up on the first time, so I put a pencil mark or marker there. Also before you put the glue on you want to ensure that the entire vane touches the entire shaft, then once it does put one small beed of Glue (Tims Goat Tuff again) and then place it one there. Give it a few seconds, make sure when you press you see a little bit of glue coming out of the side this is ensuring you have good contact. Wait a couple of minutes and turn the nick indicator for your next vane, repeat. Note: again I always put my vain on the clamp and then lay it in the jig ensuring contact but mainly to make sure the rear or the vane is going to be in the exact same place as the first one and so on. After all three are on place a tiny drop of glue at end and front of each vane, let stand knock down and go to the next. There you have it. Maybe not like most but its how I do it.
Keith
First thing I do when I get my shafts is I install the knock bushing and kocks, then I cut them to the length I need.
I then figure out where the stiffest part of the arrow is for each arrow, then use a permanent marker to mark it at the arrowend and bushing. I then align the little feeler grove on the knock with that mark.
Now I take my tips and shafts as well as vanes and fool around on the scale till I get all of them with in one grain (thats me but I am a little anal when it comes to this) I then glue in the tips. Now for broadheads before I glue in the insert I put them on each insert and then have a predetermined spot to where I want the blade on the broad head to line up (does not matter where just as long as all are the same) then I put the glue on and spin the broad head till I get to that spot (got to be fast and use a BH wrench) . I number them arrow and broadhead, with dots, broadhead gets one dot and arrow gets one dot and so on. again (permanent marker) if you dont you will have a heck of a time getting those back the same (unless you feltch them with the broadhead on, I dont too many kids running around), This is just so I can make sure the broadhead goes back to the original arrow I set it up with. I usually on due six at a time for broadheads.
Next I use the Bohing SSR surface shaft cleaner. It is simple to use and last for dozens of arrows and only cost like 4 dollars a bottle. You simple fill it with water and then shake it, I pour it into like a big gulp glass and then set you arrows in for seven minutes then rinse with hot water, let air dry and your ready to fletch. You can then just pour it back into the bottle and reuse it, it says till it gets really black looking then its time for a new bottle. Here is a link to the stuff
www.bohning.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=125
I have to tell you I have tried many fletchers and by far the best most reliable I have ever used is a Bitzenburg.
Here is the main reasons I prefer a single jig.
For one if you use a mutlifletcher every vane will be put on slightly different, I dont care what you do it will, pull out you micro guages whatever, some may not care but I do. I feel that I am already handicapped by using a bow, I want all the odds in my favor. Now if you use one jig every vane on that arrow and everyone after will be aligned exactly the same.
Even if you use 6 Bitzenburgs they will be different, much closer than using one of the mass producing fletchers, but still not the same.
I suggest taking some (same size as you will be fletching) junk vanes and some old arrows then practice with the different angles and settings on the jig till you find one you like. Be patient, when setting it up. After you get the jig set, I always start with the first vane going inline with the first line I put on there for the spine and the nock feeler. Now before you stick glue on that vane make sure you put a mark on your clamp that shows you where you want each vane end to start. There are marks but when you get going you can forget which one you lined it up on the first time, so I put a pencil mark or marker there. Also before you put the glue on you want to ensure that the entire vane touches the entire shaft, then once it does put one small beed of Glue (Tims Goat Tuff again) and then place it one there. Give it a few seconds, make sure when you press you see a little bit of glue coming out of the side this is ensuring you have good contact. Wait a couple of minutes and turn the nick indicator for your next vane, repeat. Note: again I always put my vain on the clamp and then lay it in the jig ensuring contact but mainly to make sure the rear or the vane is going to be in the exact same place as the first one and so on. After all three are on place a tiny drop of glue at end and front of each vane, let stand knock down and go to the next. There you have it. Maybe not like most but its how I do it.
Keith
