Post by Bow 1 on Feb 24, 2007 11:00:34 GMT -5
I still use paper tuning just to get started but it can be discouraging. Another method that I like to use which to me represents fine tuning is the following. Matter of fact you can ditch the paper all together if you want. One of the great target archers Stewart Bowman describes it best.
Over the years of tuning bows and arrow rests Stewart has developed a simple method of setting the arrow rest in the correct horizontal position for the straightest arrow flight and best groups. To ensure success start with the nock point is set to position the tail of the arrow about 1/8” above a 90 degree angle from the bowstring with the use of a bow square or other tuning tool, such as the Medicine Stone Arrow Level . This will eliminate the chance of false readings caused by too low a nock point.
You will need a target consisting of a dark line running vertically (up and down) across a bright surface. One example is to use a white paper (back side of an Indoor Target Face) with ½” wide black electrical tape applied across it. Place this on a suitable archery backstop, with the line reasonably vertical. Go back approx 15 yards, and shoot a few (fletched) arrows to sight-in your windage (left / right sight setting) until you are hitting the center of the line (with your elevation set at 15 yards ). Caution!! You must keep your sight level to keep this method as accurate as possible! Stewart states "we use a line instead of a dot for a couple of reasons. It is always easier to aim carefully on only one Axis instead of two, and it allows you to shoot each arrow at a different point on the line, and not destroy your arrows. You can start at the bottom and go up or vice versa make sure each shot is an inch or two higher as you proceed.
SEE DIAGRAM BELOW
Once you have your windage set, move forward in approximately 2-yard increments, shooting an arrow at each distance. You should go as close as you can with the last shot. (Usually about 2 yards away) If you shoot a bad shot, ignore it and shoot another shot. Your shooting is not what you checking, but the arrow rest left/right setting.
If your arrows land in the center of the line on all your good shots, your rest is in the optimum left/right location. If you find the shots made from close to the target land to the right of the center of the line, you must adjust the rest to the left. If the close shots land left of the center of the line then you move the rest to the right. He relates, that if the 2-yard shot is approx ½” (or12.5 MM) from the center of the line, the rest needs to be moved approx .060” (or 1.5 MM) to bring it into tune.
Stewart adds that When he first started using this method he would make very fine adjustments and spend a lot of time and soon learned to make a large enough adjustment that the results would show up quickly.
Once you have adjusted the arrow rest you must go back to 15 yards and sight-in the windage again. Then repeat the entire process until your arrows all stay on the center of the line from 15 yards to point blank (2 yards).
He uses this method often and finds that he can usually find the correct center-shot setting very quickly this way. Once you have done this you will find your groups will be tighter and your bow will be more forgiving to the little mistakes we make on each shot.
If you make an arrow size change it is wise to run thru this process again to confirm the setting.
Through years of tuning and making bows he has found that if you switch to a stiffer arrow shaft the rest will finish further away from the sight window to get the optimum flight and groups, when it is tuned properly by this method. Also if you are using a “V” type Launcher, once you find this center-shot setting, most of the various diameters of arrows will shoot to the same windage setting as the arrow is coming off the bow in the straightest line. This allows shooting a small outdoor arrow and a big indoor arrow without having to make major windage changes to the sight.
You must always consider the nock point height when switching from a small arrow to a “Fat Shaft” as it may need some adjustment. In my experience nock point is not as critical to great grouping as the left /right adjustment, as long as the rear of the arrow is above 90 degrees from the string .You can experiment with your nock point until your groups are the smallest possible. Stewart suggest you pick the distance and target face you can shoot the best and make a small movement -- usually about .060” (or 1.5 MM) with the nock height and shoot a couple of groups. Then try another small movement and test again. This way you will find a sweet-spot where your groups are good, and if you have an observer, have them watch the arrow flight and tell you what they see. Stewart has not found a failsafe method for setting nock point height, but if your arrow flies well and groups easily, there is not much left to do.
Here is the controversial part, Stewart as do I, do not believe that shooting thru paper will tell you anything, as after viewing alot of speed photography showing horrible arrow flight from a setup that makes a bullet hole in the paper at 2 or 3 distances. If you try this method of tuning you will be happy with your results. Stewart has been using this tuning method for many years, and has had great success with his own shooting and many of his customers have found this method helps them get great arrow flight and a very forgiving shooting bow.
Give this a try and I think your result will be much better and get the paper out of your head.
Over the years of tuning bows and arrow rests Stewart has developed a simple method of setting the arrow rest in the correct horizontal position for the straightest arrow flight and best groups. To ensure success start with the nock point is set to position the tail of the arrow about 1/8” above a 90 degree angle from the bowstring with the use of a bow square or other tuning tool, such as the Medicine Stone Arrow Level . This will eliminate the chance of false readings caused by too low a nock point.
You will need a target consisting of a dark line running vertically (up and down) across a bright surface. One example is to use a white paper (back side of an Indoor Target Face) with ½” wide black electrical tape applied across it. Place this on a suitable archery backstop, with the line reasonably vertical. Go back approx 15 yards, and shoot a few (fletched) arrows to sight-in your windage (left / right sight setting) until you are hitting the center of the line (with your elevation set at 15 yards ). Caution!! You must keep your sight level to keep this method as accurate as possible! Stewart states "we use a line instead of a dot for a couple of reasons. It is always easier to aim carefully on only one Axis instead of two, and it allows you to shoot each arrow at a different point on the line, and not destroy your arrows. You can start at the bottom and go up or vice versa make sure each shot is an inch or two higher as you proceed.
SEE DIAGRAM BELOW
Once you have your windage set, move forward in approximately 2-yard increments, shooting an arrow at each distance. You should go as close as you can with the last shot. (Usually about 2 yards away) If you shoot a bad shot, ignore it and shoot another shot. Your shooting is not what you checking, but the arrow rest left/right setting.
If your arrows land in the center of the line on all your good shots, your rest is in the optimum left/right location. If you find the shots made from close to the target land to the right of the center of the line, you must adjust the rest to the left. If the close shots land left of the center of the line then you move the rest to the right. He relates, that if the 2-yard shot is approx ½” (or12.5 MM) from the center of the line, the rest needs to be moved approx .060” (or 1.5 MM) to bring it into tune.
Stewart adds that When he first started using this method he would make very fine adjustments and spend a lot of time and soon learned to make a large enough adjustment that the results would show up quickly.
Once you have adjusted the arrow rest you must go back to 15 yards and sight-in the windage again. Then repeat the entire process until your arrows all stay on the center of the line from 15 yards to point blank (2 yards).
He uses this method often and finds that he can usually find the correct center-shot setting very quickly this way. Once you have done this you will find your groups will be tighter and your bow will be more forgiving to the little mistakes we make on each shot.
If you make an arrow size change it is wise to run thru this process again to confirm the setting.
Through years of tuning and making bows he has found that if you switch to a stiffer arrow shaft the rest will finish further away from the sight window to get the optimum flight and groups, when it is tuned properly by this method. Also if you are using a “V” type Launcher, once you find this center-shot setting, most of the various diameters of arrows will shoot to the same windage setting as the arrow is coming off the bow in the straightest line. This allows shooting a small outdoor arrow and a big indoor arrow without having to make major windage changes to the sight.
You must always consider the nock point height when switching from a small arrow to a “Fat Shaft” as it may need some adjustment. In my experience nock point is not as critical to great grouping as the left /right adjustment, as long as the rear of the arrow is above 90 degrees from the string .You can experiment with your nock point until your groups are the smallest possible. Stewart suggest you pick the distance and target face you can shoot the best and make a small movement -- usually about .060” (or 1.5 MM) with the nock height and shoot a couple of groups. Then try another small movement and test again. This way you will find a sweet-spot where your groups are good, and if you have an observer, have them watch the arrow flight and tell you what they see. Stewart has not found a failsafe method for setting nock point height, but if your arrow flies well and groups easily, there is not much left to do.
Here is the controversial part, Stewart as do I, do not believe that shooting thru paper will tell you anything, as after viewing alot of speed photography showing horrible arrow flight from a setup that makes a bullet hole in the paper at 2 or 3 distances. If you try this method of tuning you will be happy with your results. Stewart has been using this tuning method for many years, and has had great success with his own shooting and many of his customers have found this method helps them get great arrow flight and a very forgiving shooting bow.
Give this a try and I think your result will be much better and get the paper out of your head.
