Pleas if you shoot a bow READ THIS

[Bow 1]

I am opening it up for every one. If you got a question no mater how small, or want to see a certain procedure done and explaned post it up or PM me I will do my best to get it answered and posted. Guys, anything, it dont matter, got a question just ask up. Between me and the rest of the Staff here we will get a solution for you.

Keith

[timhicks]

Ok test!!! can a 60 pound bow shoot faster than a 70 pound bow??Ok next question,,I was trained or raised,, a bow peforms at its best maxed out.So if you have a 70 pound bow down to 60,, do you think it hurts the bow or helps it??I am asking for the goobs at work.. The one who got me 05 alligence is having a hard time pulling it back,,,he turned it down to 60. I told him to max it back out..Now let me say a few facts about this fellow,,soaking wet he is 140,,5'9" and a puss. He isnt even hitting a 18 inch circle ,after the guy set it down for him...At work today,,I didnt have a cam,,I shot 6 shots in a 4 " circle..I dont think its the bow,,I think its the bow holder,,Keith you have to stop doing such great things,,,I am gonna run out of pos karmas and you are gonna pass me

[FlamesRock]

Hi all
Just joined and looking forward to learning from everyone. I am a long-term rifle hunter who, for may years did not consider a bow due to a past shoulder injury (rugby)...well, this year I actually tried a bow at the shop and it felt fine...so I trusted the dealer and bought what he suggested...a PSE Firestorm Lite...I do like the bow, but when I went to the indoor range (which I didn't know existed until I had purchased the bow, arrows, sight, rest,. etc, which They seem to feel was poor choices as well) I was really given a lesson by many of the archers who clearly knew what they were doing...long story short...they feel the Firestorm Lite is not a very good bow to begin with, due to it's short length (30")...also, when I bought the bow it came with 6 Carbon Force Predator 200 radial weave (should have been 12), and the guy then sold me a dozen carbon Rebel something or other...completely different weights....arrrgh...so here is my dilemma...I want to hunt with the bow, not really into competition....I want equipment that I can grow with, meaning I don't mind spending the money now, rather than having to constantly change to a better model over time....question...is the Firestorm Lite a hunting bow which I will be happy with for at least a few years and, should I dump my tru-glo sight and NAP Quicktune 360 rest or are they OK?....any "honest" help would be greatly appreciated.

[Mobe]

Flames,
The main problem I see is the different arrow weights. Heavier arrows that are the same length will have different rates of drop. The sight and rest will do fine. Most archers tinker/trade/upgrade with their equipment until they die.
The main problems hunting with stick and string are noise on release and not knowing what your setup can do with you at the helm.
First problem, noise is conquered with not too heavy an arrow or too light. Check out the Easton arrow chart for your bow weight to see what size arrows are for your bow weight at the length you cut them to. vibration dampers on the string/bow aid a great deal also.
The second one is cured with continous practice. When you know where your arrow is going to be after the release you are ready to go hunting.
I use a bow that I've had for many years. I would like to upgrade for a Matthews solo cam setup some day but thats not in the cards for me at the time. I know where my arrow goes and I take a deer with it. End result is great meals all year.
Newer bows are much much shorter than mine is. This is the way it's going. Due to modern technology the short bow can do the same and better than the older longer bows. Probably what the old hands were saying is that a longer bow is more forgiving of mistakes from novise shooters than a short axle bow is. Also, dual cam bows are harder to tune than single cam ones. What you have should do great until you wish to change what you have. If it was no good we would all be using a long bow, sinew strings and cedar arrows still. Happy hunting and welcome to what I consider to be the greatest sport in the world!

[Bow 1]

FlamesRock I sent you a pm. Get back with me.

Keith

[MoBowman]

timhicks said:

Ok test!!! can a 60 pound bow shoot faster than a 70 pound bow??Ok next question,,I was trained or raised,, a bow peforms at its best maxed out.So if you have a 70 pound bow down to 60,, do you think it hurts the bow or helps it??I am asking for the goobs at work.. The one who got me 05 alligence is having a hard time pulling it back,,,he turned it down to 60. I told him to max it back out..Now let me say a few facts about this fellow,,soaking wet he is 140,,5'9" and a puss. He isnt even hitting a 18 inch circle ,after the guy set it down for him...At work today,,I didnt have a cam,,I shot 6 shots in a 4 " circle..I dont think its the bow,,I think its the bow holder,,Keith you have to stop doing such great things,,,I am gonna run out of pos karmas and you are gonna pass me

A bow is at it's best when it is maxed out. But turning the bow down by no means hurts the bow, unless it is turned below the manufactures recomendations.

Now my question to you would be this. Why would you have a new archer turn their bow up all the way? Why not turn it down to where they are confortable in drawing the bow back so they can concentrate more on basic issues of shooting a bow, such as proper anchor point, form,ect,ect,. Then once they get these issues down, work on adding extra weight to the draw.

IMHO, draw weight has become to much of a macho thing with alot of shooters. If an individual can not hold their bow out infront of them and draw straight back without pointing the bow to the air, then they are drawing too much weight.

[Bow 1]

That is not anything I suggested but if you must know the guy that posted that Tim Hicks, was a pro staffer here and was just funning around when he posted that. No bad advice here, it was if I recall a kind of welcome to me. Tim went on to bigger things. He is a good guy with a great sense of humor.

Again if anyone has any bowhunting (serious questions) I will answer them for what I know and research it for you, that is what I am here for. I got lines in to many greats, if I can not figure it out.

Keith

[pew222]

Im wanting to give bow hunting a try. I bought a Bear Buckmasters Pro kit less than half off from Walmart for $100. I replaced the sight with a Truglo 3 pin ($5 on sale at Walmart) (planning on replacing with a keller) and added some limbsavers between the limbs and on the front ($15, with a Tru fire X caliper release, again all on sale at Walmart). It came with whiskers for the string and a whisker biscuit rest so I left them as they were. My question is if this is a decent bow/setup or not (retails for about $250 for the bow) and should I spend the money to do anything else to it? It shoots okay for $120, but I think that I can get a little better with more practice alone. Any suggestions on fine tuning/equipment changes/add-ons?

[Bow 1]

Welcome to the awesome world of bowhunting. Yes the bow you purchased is a decent bow for a beginner. The rest is fine and is a great hunting rest, that is what I have on my sons bow. My question to you is, is it your correct draw length? Many people make the mistake of going to a store like that where there is no one to give you advice. So they purchase a bow and its to long a draw or short or heavy. In other words it does not fit the person, then they try to shoot it and get mad as there not getting results. First thing you should do is make sure it is set at your proper draw length. After that you should have your rest installed if not already on there and install a nock, make sure the arrow is in line with the string (with the arrow on the rest and nocked, look behind the string, lining it up with the top cam and the string should run right down the center of the arrow) this will be your starting point. Now look at the bow rest and arrow and make sure its is level (up and down) I always stry to get it level going through the hole that bolts the rest on. Once you do this install another knock just below the arrow that is nocked about 1/8 inch is fine (you dont want it to tight to the knock as string angle can pinch it off and not too far away). To tune it now you will need to make a frame and use a sheet of paper (I Use Large Bucher paper, all white) and fasten around the frame, you will be papertuning now. You can make a frame out of anything really just something that can hold the paper tought so you can see what the arrow is doing. Now once you get the frame in place in front of the target (have the paper at least an arrow and a half length away from your target). Stand in front of the paper make sure you will shoot throuh the paper and hit the target (many have missed the target and wound up with an arrow in a wall), you should be about 5 to 7 feet away. With a relaxed grip on the bow handle and draw comfortably back get in a good position and slowly pull off the triger. You will notice the arrow tears one way or another left, right up or down, now you will need to adjust based on the results from the tear here is a link to Eastons Guide www.eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp once you get to that page there is a tuning guide you can download. You are striving to get a perfect bullet hole through the paper, for right handed shooters a little high and left is ok. Once that is accomplished you should get someone to help you adjust your peep. First install the peep about 4 1/2 inches above the top nock. Now draw the bow back with you eyes closed and come to a comfortable anchor point then open them, do not move anything have your helper move the peep till you can see through it. Now I would check the arrow again through the paper, and you off to sight in. Start at 10 yards and go from there. Anything else you need just let me know. Some additional notes are make sure the arrows are spined correctly for the bow. Easton also has a guide on there for that. IF you tell me the poundage and arrow size as well as length I can tell you if they are correct. Another thing is if they are not, you will most likely never get it tuned correctly.

Keith
Keith

[pew222]

The draw length is about 1/2" to 3/4" too long for me but I cant find the wing module to bring it down to 27". I had to use the 28" and then move the bowstring mounting post for now. If you know where I can find a 27" perimeter weighted one cam II wing draw length module (w5 I think) please let me know. How long should my arrows be if my draw length is 27"-28"? I guess I have no choice but to take it to my local pro shop and pay them to help me fine tune everything. My draw weight right now is 70#. I need it down to 60#-65# so that I can shoot it comfortably. I dont know how to measure it correctly when I turn the limb bolts to get it to the right #. Is there anything else other that what you mentioned in your first reply that I should focus on? Any suggestions for add ons or improvements in my current setup?

[Bow 1]

The draw length is about 1/2" to 3/4" too long for me but I cant find the wing module to bring it down to 27". I had to use the 28" and then move the bowstring mounting post for now. If you know where I can find a 27" perimeter weighted one cam II wing draw length module (w5 I think) please let me know. How long should my arrows be if my draw length is 27"-28"? I guess I have no choice but to take it to my local pro shop and pay them to help me fine tune everything. My draw weight right now is 70#. I need it down to 60#-65# so that I can shoot it comfortably. I dont know how to measure it correctly when I turn the limb bolts to get it to the right #. Is there anything else other that what you mentioned in your first reply that I should focus on? Any suggestions for add ons or improvements in my current setup.

First off you really need to get the draw length corrected. That is the most important. Once you get that done dine tunning will be easy. As far as poundage, just tighten the limb bolts all the way till they bottom out, once they do, then back it off on equal turns. I go one turn at a time, just make sure you keep track of the turns and that they are equal. Make sure you dont go to far, lower it enough to where it feels comfortable to you. Arrow length depends on more than your draw length, you want the arrow to be out in front of the rest enough for broadhead clearence. It also depends on the spine of the arrow and poundage, and tip weight. The shorter you cut the arrows the stiffer the spine, the heavier the tip makes the spine weaker, the longer the arrow makes the spine weaker, the lighter the tip the stiffer the spine. You have to find a balance. Like I said if you give me your arrow size and bow weight I can tell you which arrows would shoot best out of that bow, I also need to know is it the type of ecentrics it has (soft cam, hard cam, etc).

Keith

[misfire]

I switched rests from a Whisker Biscuit to a Muzzy Zero Drop away rest and my shot groups are tighter than ever is this all in my mind or does the Muzzy Drop Away make that much difference???

[Bow 1]

That could hapen to you by swapping anything on a bow. Its like a secret formula. Once you get it dont change it. I know many people that shoot biscuits and have used them indoors and shot perfect scores with them. Its not in your head if its on the paper. Some things work great with your setup and some dont. That is one of the things about archery that is so intriuging. There are tons of posibilities between arrows, fletching, rest etc, that can change the way a bow shoots. Sounds like you found the correct combo for yours. Enjoy and shoot straight.

Keith