Broadhead planeing?

[Hunt4Ever]

Hey everyone, i am beginning to practice with my bow, i have Carbon express CX200 arrows with 2" balzer vanes and use muzzy 3blade broadheads for hunting. I am dead on with my arrows with field tips from 10 to 30 yards, but when i shoot a broadhead it can go right or left 4 to 6 inches. Or sometimes hit right were i wanted it to. The thing is you cant predict it, it will fly through the air and then suddendly turn right or left. I called the local archery shop and told them and the guy said that he has the same arrows and broadheas as i have and it does the same for everyone. he says its broadhead planning. (idk if i spelled it right) but he says its normal and not to worry about it. well im worrying because id get how it could be normal when you cant sight or patern something that ist consistant. So i am just asking oppions on what i can do, or what should i do. Do i buy different broadheads or is thie really normal. Thanks for all the replies.

H4E

[BackWoods]

The main reason why broadheads dont fly like field points is that the broadhead is not square to the arrow shaft.
The most critical thing to get broadheads to fly correctly is to spin tune them BEFORE you glue the inserts in. using a G5 ASD to square the end of the arrow shafts is also very necessary.

When you are done, the broadhead must spin perfect. any wobble when they spin and it will effect accuracy.

How i do it is i cut the shaft to length. then use the G5 arrow squaring device i square the shaft end. i put the insert into the shaft and attach my broadhead. i then spin this arrow in an arrow spinner. if the broadhead wobbles, i turn the insert a 1/4 turn and spin again.

Once i find the spot where the broadhead spins perfcet, i then matk the insert and shaft with a black mark from a magic marker. i then remove the insert and broadhead, replace a field point in the insert and apply my hot melt to the insert. i then put it into the shaft and make a full 360 degree turn to line the marks back up. this insures a even coat of glue and by lining the marks back up insures that my insert is back exactly where the broadhead spun perfect.

After the arrow cools in about a min, i place the broadhead back in the insert and spin for the final test. what i end up with is arrows that are spin tuned perfectly for that broadhead. i number my arrows and i number my broadheads. this insures that the same broadhead goes back onto the same arrow i spin tuned it with.

Its a lot of work. YES.. but what i end up with is awesome flying arrows with broadheads and field points. Hope this helps.. Steve

If the above does not help try this site for some broadhead tuning info..
www.lawleroutdoors.com/Article.asp?Article=Bow%20Setup%20and%20Tuning&Call=Hunting/Hunting.asp?Game=Archery

[hocktl]

I agree with everything Backwoods sez except this: "The main reason why broadheads dont fly like field points is that the broadhead is not square to the arrow shaft. " While the statement is true if you add in front the prereq of "once a bow is tuned" You really need to get your arrow flying true as well as align your BH. I've been shooting fixed blades all my life and won't tolerate changing my sights to accomidate a broadhead. I said all that to say this. You are basically struggling with two different issues here. First is planing that affects your overall grouping. That is more of a tuning issue IMO that will keep you from changing your sights to accomidate FP's. The second is a loose pattern with BH's which is what you are discribing when you say you are getting strays. Aligning those BH's as backwoods sez will help tighten that group.

We've had disscussions on here before about broadheads and carbon or alum. arrows. etc. I guess I'm old school but I really believe if somethings not broke I just won't fart with it. I still use alum XX78's and thunderhead 100's. I keep my bow well tuned and practice with both field points and broad heads. Year round I keep a couple broadheads screwed on and throw them into my routine on a regular basis. I have targets out to 40yds and can shoot either FP or BH anywhere in between. If I'm off it's usually to the right and I can usually blame it on grip torque and not the arrow set up. If you find a good set up stick with it. It costs alot of time and money to change it. I just haven't been able to justify messing with a proven set up. Take a hard look at your spline and point weight and make sure your not pushing any envelopes. If your arrow and point match your draw lenth and weight then make sure your arrow is flying true. I start with paper tuning and then do walk back which once it's tuned to paper I don't normally have to make any changes to a walkback but it makes me feel better and confidence is a good thing.

If the arrow is flying true and you follow Backwoods directions on aligment and your still having probems I would suspect the broadhead and maybe look at switching broadheads till you get it right. Bottom line, if you concede and adjust your sights to accomidate planing arrows then you pretty much need to keep the set up and shoot BH's through out the season. If you pay your dues and set it up correctly you can save your targets through the season by continueing to shoot FP's (occasionly throwing a BH down range) and still be confident at the moment of truth.

Good luck!!